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These leaps forward, combined with other advances - such as an improved understanding of fermentation, increased knowledge of corks and the ability to measure correct sugar dosages - lead to low breakage rates and the superbly fizzy, sediment-free wines we enjoy today. She also worked tirelessly to develop export markets, even in the face of wartime blockades and Napoleon’s drive for a French empire. The riddling table, necessary to speed the process, was also developed. Under her hand, the process of removing sediment from bottles (remuage) was developed. When he died seven years later, this shrewd, tough-minded woman took over managing the company. See the sidebar for the straight goods.) Nicole Ponsardin married a vineyard owner named Clicquot in Champagne in 1798. (Dom Perignon? Nope, he was an astute wine blender and oenologist, but the stories about him “drinking stars” are just good advertising copy. Modern champagne owes a lot to one woman: Madame Clicquot. This was not appealing to all tastes, needless to say! Before champagne could become popular, it needed to be more commercially acceptable. To slow the spread of bubbly even further, this original “sparkling champagne” had a layer of yeast sediment in every bottle. Even with stronger bottles, few commercial wineries would have been willing to lose up to half their production to shattering glassware! At that time the British, introduced to “sparkling champagne” by ex-pat Frenchmen, enjoyed the lively drink, but only in small amounts.
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Without knowing how to control fermentation, the French did the obvious - they got stronger bottles that wouldn’t burst under the pressure of the gas. Now, this was the 18th century, before Louis Pasteur discovered the action of yeast in fermentation. In the spring, the bottled wine would start fermenting again in the warmth, producing carbon dioxide and fizzy wine.
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It’s so cool, in fact, that occasionally, after the wine was vinted in the fall, the cold weather would halt its fermentation before it completely finished. You see, the Champagne region of France is just as far north as you can get and still grow vinifera grapes successfully. Originally, champagne wines were intended to be fizz-free. You’ve joined the ranks of champagne makers and are heir to their accidental discovery. While sparkling Shiraz or bubbly Beaujolais might be a winemaking failure, don’t despair. pop! A gush of foam follows the cork and the wine fizzes audibly. Has this ever happened to you? You bottle what seems to be your next, greatest batch of wine, carefully set it aside to age for as long as you can possibly stand it and, when you go to open a bottle.